Dog Daze (Snoopy) Christmas Ornament Inlay Kit EZInlays

Dog Daze Decorative Inlay Kit

$75
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Dimensions:

6" Tall, 3-3/4" Wide

Instructions to build the Decorative Inlay Kit Dog Daze

Basic Inlay
Instructions

Walnut W/ Stars Ornament

Image of the Dog Daze inlay built on Walnut with stars

Yellow Heart Ornament

Image of the Dog Daze inlay built on Yellow Heart

Walnut Ornament

Image of the Dog Daze inlay built on Walnut

What's Included in the Kit

For $75 you'll receive a decorative inlay kit containing 6 templates. Each of the templates builds another layer of Dog Daze with the option of decorating the dog house for Christmas. The seventh template allows you to cut out the inlay as a Christmas Ornament.

Best of all you don't need to be a master crafts-person, much less a woodworker, to build this ornament. All you need is a few basic tools that are inexpensive as well as safe and easy to use. Click here review the Router Based Inlay Tool List.

Never built an inlay before? Click here to Learn How To Build Any Wood Inlay.

Select the Inlay Materials

Click twice to play

This video explains the process used to select the inlay materials for this build of the decorative inlay Dog Daze Christmas Ornament.

When selecting the inlay materials for Dog Daze you'll want to focus on contrast between the dog, his house, and the background material.

This design was created to honor childhood memories of the Charllie Brown Christmas special. Childhood memories are just the best! :)

INLAY MATERIALS THIS BUILD

    * Walnut 7" x 7" x 5/8" - Base material
    * Quilted Maple 4" x 3" x 1/8" - Dogs body and arm
    * Yellow Heart 3" x 3" x 1/8" - Christmas stocking
    * Birds Eye Maple 3" x 3" x 1/8" - Fur on the stocking
    * Wenge 3" x 3" x 1/8" - Ear and nose
    * Rosewood 4" x 3" x 1/8" - Bottom of dog house
    * Bacote 6" x 3" x 1/8" - Top of dog hose

GENERAL GUIDELNES

When selecting the pieces for the dog try to get the grain patterns between the head, body, and feet aligned. Then for the arm use the same color wood but have the grain direction different than the rest of the dogs body.

You get to decide what type of material to use for the dogs . Personally I recommend using epoxy and glitter because you can make a "sparkley" for the dog. Dogs love bling! :)

For the roof a horizontal grain patterns seems to provide better contrast between the dog and the roof than a vertical one does.

Cutting an Inlay Procedures

Configure your router by taking the BUSHING OFF and setting depth of plunge to cut all the way through the inlay material.

Align and, using double sided tape, affix the template to the inlay material.

Clamp the inlay assembly securely to the workbench

Position the router inside the cutout shape, turn it on, and plunge it into the inlay material. Carefully guide the router around the perimeter of the shape keeping the bearing in constant contact with the template wall. After the pass is complete turn the router off, un-plunge it, and set it aside.

Ensure you cut all the way through the inlay material. If not readjust the depth of plunge and make another pass.

Carefully remove the template and the inlay from the backing material.

Click here review how to Cut Inlays.

Layer 1 Piece 1

Layer 1 Inlay

Layer 1 provides the base for the Dog House. You've got all sorts of choices when picking out this material so have fun with it!

About the only thing you need to worry about with this piece is how does it contrast with the backgrounand material and the dog house roof..

Layer 2 Piece 1

Layer 2 Inlay

Layer 2 provides the roof for the Dog House. Once again you've got all sorts of choices when picking out this piece

The main thing to consider is the contrast between this piece, the dog house base, the background material, and the dog itself.

Layer 3 Pieces 1 and 2

Layer 3 Piece 3

Layer 3 Inlay

Layer 3 pieces 1 and 2 comprise part of the dogs body. Because you want to keep the pieces of the dog body as continious as possible, I recommend cutting out L3P1, then L4P1, and then L3P2. Keep as little of a gap between these pieces as possible to make the dog look more natural.

Layer 3 piece 2 is the main part of the Christmas stocking. Once again contrast is everything for this piece. Make sure it sticks out against the dog house and the background material. .

Layer 4 Piece 1

Layer 4 Piece 2

Layer 4 Inlays

Layer 4 piece 1 is the middle part of the dogs body. As mentioned in the Layer 3 discussion, cut this piece out after you cut out the dogs head and before the foot. Keep the gap, on the inlay material, as small as possible to give the grain pattern a continious flow throughout the body.

Layer 4 piece 2 is the top of the Christmas Stocking. Once again (and yes this is sounding a bit like a broken record) look for contrast between the dog house and the rest of the stocking. If you want a bright white top for the stocking leave the void empty and fill it with epoxy after the rest of the inlay is built.

Layer 5 Piece 1

Layer 5 Piece 2

Layer 5 Inlays

Layer 5 piece 1 (yes, they are mislabeled on the templates) is the dogs nose, Layer 5 Piece 2 is the dogs ear.

I recommend using a dark colored wood, such as wenge for these pieces. The only problem you may run into is the nose might blend into the background material, so use your judgement when selecting the nose.

Layer 5 piece 3 is the dogs paw. When cutting out this piece make the grain pattern go in the opposite direction of the dogs body to make it stand out a little.

Layer 6 Pieces 1 and Lights

Layer 6 Inlay and Lights

Layer 6 piece 1 is the dogs collar. Yes it is also mis-labeled... sigh... It can be filled with an inlay or epoxy. Personally I like to fill it with epoxy just to spice things up a bit.

Cutting Voids And Assembly

Configure your router by putting the BUSHING ON and setting depth of plunge to cut a void as deep as the inlay material without cutting all the way through the base material.

Use the circular alignment marks to align the template to the base material, then use double sided tape to affix the template in place. Use quick release clamps to secure the assembly to the workbench.

Position the router inside the shape, turn it on, and plunge it down. Guide the router around the perimeter of the shape and then move it back and forth to remove the material. After the majority of the material is removed turn the router off, un-plunge it, and set it aside. Clean out the debris then make another pass to get clean edges for the inlay to fit into and to remove any remaining knobbies.

Carefully remove the template from the base material.

Pre-fit the inlay into it's void and sand to fit if necessary. Once the fit is satisfactory smear glue on the bottom of the inlay and in the void. Place the inlay in it's void and use a soft mallet to tap the inlay until it's fully seated.

Click here review how to Cut Voids and Assemble the Inlays.

Layer 1 Voids Cut

Layer 1 Assembled

Layer 1 Voids

Use the Ornament Cutout template to position the Dog Daze inlay on the base material. After positioning the template, trace the two circular alignment marks and then trace the outline of the L1P1 inlay cutout. Review template alignment procedures here.

Align the Layer 1 template to the base material, using the two circle alignment marks and the secure the template to the material with double sided tape. Route the void for gog house base using the Cutting a Void procedure. DO NOT ROUTE THE ALIGNMENT MARKS!!!

After the void has been routed, use a paint scraper to gently pry the template off the base material.

Assemble the the inlay piece into it's void. When finished the inlay should look similar to the Layer 1 Assembled picture.

After the inlay is installed let the glue dry for fifteen to twenty minutes. The drying time isn't required, just a recommendation. The void to be routed on Layer 2 will cut into the L1P1 inlay. If the glue is still wet clean the glue off the router bit prior to routing the next piece!!!

Cut the Light voids and leave them empty. By leaving them empty, they can be filled with epoxy and glitter to make it look more like a Christmas Light.

Layer 2 Void Cut

Layer 2 Assembled

Layer 2 Voids

Layer 2 is the roof of the dog house. The roof will overlay the 4 lights that were already routed out. This is what gives the impression of the lights being on the back side of the dog house.

Using the registration marks, not the template outline, position and secure the Layer 2 template to the base material. Route the void using the Cutting a Void procedure. DO NOT ROUTE THE ALIGNMENT MARKS!!!

After the voids have been routed, use a paint scraper to gently pry the template off the base material.

Assemble the inlay piece into its void.

Let this layer dry for fifteen to twenty minutes, but it's not required. The next layer will cut a bit out of the top of the roof and a small portion of the lower left hand corner of the roof..

Layer 3 Voids Cut

Layer 3 Assembled

Layer 3

This layer gives the dog its head and feet. It also cuts out the body of the Christmas Stocking.

Using the registration marks, not the template outline, position and secure the Layer 3 template to the base material. Route the voids using the Cutting a Void procedure. DO NOT ROUTE THE ALIGNMENT MARKS!!!

After the voids have been routed, use a paint scraper to gently pry the template off the base material.

Assemble the inlay pieces into their respective void. When finished the inlay should look similar to the Layer 3 Assembled picture.

After you inlay the pieces in this layer you can proceed to the next layer without waiting for the glue to dry. The next layer only takes a small amount of material away from dogs head and feet. Layer 4 will also cut into the body of the stocking a little bit.

Layer 4 Voids

Layer 4 Assembled

Layer 4 Voids

Layer 4 adds the middle of the dogs body and the top of the Christmas Stocking. You will also route out a Christmas Light.

Position and secure the Layer 4 template to the base material. Route the voids using the Cutting a Void procedure. DO NOT ROUTE THE ALIGNMENT MARKS!!!

After the voids have been routed they should look similar to the Layer 4 Voids picture.

Assemble the two inlay pieces into their respective void. After assembling the inlay your design should look similar to the Layer 4 Assembled picture.

Let this layer dry for fifteen to twenty minutes because the next layer will cut a chunk out of the body of the dog.

Layer 5 Voids

Layer 5 Assembled

Layer 5

Layer 5 gives the dog his nose, ear, and arm. You'll also cut out a bunch of Christmas Light voids.

Position and secure the Layer 5 template to the base material. Route the voids using the Cutting a Void procedure. DO NOT ROUTE THE ALIGNMENT MARKS!!!

After the voids have been routed they should look similar to the Layer 5 Voids picture.

Assemble the two inlay pieces into their respective void. After assembling the inlay your design should look similar to the Layer 5 Assembled picture.

Cut the Light voids and leave them empty. By leaving them empty, they can be filled with epoxy and glitter to make it look more like a Christmas Light.

After you inlay the pieces in this layer you can proceed to the next layer without waiting for the glue to dry.

Layer 6 Voids

Layer 6 Assembled

Layer 6

Layer 6 adds the collar to the dog. You'll also cut out the rest of the Christmas lights with this layer..

Position and secure the Layer 5 template to the base material. Route the voids using the Cutting a Void procedure. DO NOT ROUTE THE ALIGNMENT MARKS!!!

After the voids have been routed they should look similar to the Layer 6 Voids picture.

You can either inlay a wood inlay into the collar void or leave it as it is so it can be filled with epoxy.

These two pictures were taken after the Ornament layer was cut. I also filled all of the voids with epoxy, but the picture was taken prior to the final sanding.

Cutting Out the Ornament as an Inlay

Click twice to play

Prior to filming the video I had prepared the router by taking the bushing off and set the depth of plunge to cut all the way through the base material. I also positioned the template, using the alignment marks built into the template, and securely fastened it to the base material using double sided tape.

To cut out the ornament three passes were used with a little cleaning out of dust and debris before the final pass was made. After I was sure I had cut all the way through the base material, and all the way around the shape, I was able to remove the template.

While the video shows the Santa inlay being cut out, the procedure is the same for the Dog Daze ornament.

Final Sanding and Applying Finish

To fix any gaps in the inlay smear a small amount of glue into the gap, wipe off the excess glue, then sand over the area. The sanding action will cause sawdust to mix with the glue in the gap blurring it out.

After all the gaps have been filled sand the entire inlay until it's flat. This process is best done after the glue has completely dried!

Once sanded apply the finish of your choice. Personally I like to apply three coats of Tung Oil followed by three coats of a polyurethane finish that has a UV inhibitor in it. The UV protection will help keep the woods from changing color over time.

Click here for more information about Sanding and Finishing Tutorial.